Index
- How much to fix {insert equipment name here}
- I have a problem with my {insert equipment name here}, can you fix it
- My {equipment name} is almost brand new! How can it possibly need a carburetor kit/fuel line/fuel filter already?
- We had our equipment repaired at your shop just a few weeks ago, and now it quit working again
- Why is {insert part here} so expensive? I can get one from the auto parts store for half the price!
- Do you work on {type of equipment}?
- Do you have {part} in stock?
- What is this Zone Heating You talk about?
- How can I save money with Zone Heat?
- Can red kerosene be used?
- How should kerosene be stored?
- How long can I store kerosene?
- How can I tell if my kerosene is good?
- What causes bad odor in my heater?
- Why won't my heater stay burning?
- Why does my heater smoke?
- Why won't my heater light?
- Why won't my igniter glow?
- Why won't my heater shut-off?
- How often should I change my wick?
- Why should I buy Kerosene heater wicks and parts from you, instead of my local hardware store?
- Why should I buy replacement parts from you, instead of my local dealership?
- Can you get rid of those silly plastic caps on my carburetor so I can adjust it when I need to?
- I have a question, but it isn't answered here
- I have a Ryobi / Ridgid power tool with a bad battery - Can you warranty it for me?
- But, my Ridgid tool has a lifetime warranty!
- Why is this FAQ so disorganized?
Q: How much to fix {insert equipment name here} ?
A: We do not quote repairs until we have had an opportunity to look over the unit, and diagnose the problem. Machinery is no longer as simple as it used to be. It will cost from $15.00 (minimum) up to 1 hour's worth of time at our current shop labor rate (see policies page) for diagnostic work & preparing a detailed repair estimate. If you should choose to proceed with the repairs, the estimate charges will be waived, since the job labor rate includes any diagnostic time necessary. Most jobs are quoted at an established factory flat rate time standard, even if it takes us longer that the flat rate time to do the repairs.
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Q: I have a problem with my {insert equipment name here}, can you fix it?
A: Yes. However, the "Fix" generally will include replacing worn parts. In some situations, we will try to work with our customer to "fix" the part rather than to repair it, if necessary, however in most cases, a part that is worn or broken will have to be replaced eventually.
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Q: My {equipment name} is almost brand new! How can it possibly need a carburetor kit/fuel line/fuel filter already??
A: There are several ways this can happen. With equipment that is not used frequently, it is a fairly common issue for the gas or fuel to go "stale" , which results in gum and varnish deposits building up, and these deposits will quickly plug the tiny holes and jets in many modern fuel systems. On the other hand, also on equipment that is rarely used, it is possible for the rubber parts to dry out to the point that they harden and develop cracks or deform. This also often results in needing to replace parts that otherwise normally would have been fine. Finally, all outdoor power equipment is fuel sensitive- With the modern Ethanol-blended fuels, most notably the E-15 fuel (Typically found in the cheapest fuel such as 87 Octane - Echo recommends at least 89 Octane grade fuel and their Power Blend 2-cycle oil), many carburetor parts cannot work well with them. E-15 fuel contains ethanol, and this not only absorbs water, causing numerous performance problems with power equipment, It also dries out rubber and viton parts used in most all modern power equipment carburetors. If E-15 fuel is suspected, we have a test kit we will use to determine the type and quality of fuel. (Test kits are also available for purchase in shop and on our online store)
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Q: We had our equipment repaired at your shop just a few weeks ago, and now it quit working again!
A: All of our repairs are guaranteed, unless otherwise noted on the invoice. Our Standard warranty on all repairs is 90 days. Only invoiced repairs are guaranteed, however - For example, if we fix the engine on your tractor and then the mower belt breaks, in most cases, the belt is not covered by the guarantee. - But if we repaired the engine on your tractor for a "no start" condition, and then it again won't start, in most cases this is covered by our guarantee, any exceptions to the shop's guarantee will be noted on the customer invoice. In any case, we want to work to make it right, so if you ever have a problem with our services, bring it back to us, and we will see what we can do for you.
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Q: Why is {insert part here} so expensive? I can get one from the auto parts store for half the price!
A: Very often, in situations like this, especially with parts like drive belts, carburetor kits, bearings, and similar parts, the auto parts store's part is a "will fit" part - meaning it will fit in most dimensions, but that is not necessarily the correct part to use. Especially in the case of drive belts, the internal construction and fabric wrap, the precise sizing of the belt, (many Original equipment belts are tenths of an inch longer or shorter than a "will fit" belt) - just a tenth of an inch in difference in belt length can make the difference between a belt that lasts 2 or 3 mowing seasons, and a belt that you have to replace 2 or 3 times a year. Because the original equipment belt is manufactured to precise tolerances, materials, and exact length, they do tend to be much more expensive than even a "premium quality" "will-fit" belt.
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Q: Do you work on {type of equipment}?
A: We work on almost all types of outdoor power equipment that is powered by a gasoline or diesel engine. It's simpler to say what we DON'T work on - We don't work on motorcycles of any type, we don't work on any road-ready vehicle registered for use on public highways, we don't work on heavy construction equipment (like bulldozers, backhoes, etc) Also, we don't work on appliances or large electric motors (Although, we do service small electric motor powered lawn and garden equipment). Basically, if you can fit it in the back of a pickup truck or light utility trailer to bring it to our shop, we'll work on it.
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Q: Do you have {part} in stock?
A: In most cases, we probably do have the more common parts such as filters, spark plugs, bearings, oil, etc. For any other parts, we will have to look it up in the parts catalog and check our stock to see if we have it or not. To facilitate this process when calling in by phone, please have full details on the engine or equipment, including the exact model number, type or spec number, serial number, etc. If we do not have the parts in stock, we can get them typically in 1 to 3 business days, depending on the brand and location of the distributor we order from. In some cases, however, the parts may be on backorder at the distributor (5-10 business days) or even at the factory (anywhere from 10 days to 6 weeks to get the parts.. In cases like this, we'll call around to other distributors and dealers all over the U.S.A. to see if we can get the part quicker)
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Q: I have a question, but it isn't answered here.
A: In that case, feel free to give us a call, or use our contact form - Unlike many businesses with an online presence, we do aggressively check our email on a daily basis, and typically can have a response for your question in a matter of hours, if not quicker. Also, if you would like to discuss your question in greater detail online, We can do an online chat session via most of the more popular instant messaging protocols - just drop us a note and ask, we'll be happy to send you our contact ID for one of our chat clients (such as AIM, YIM, MSN, Gtalk, ICQ, etc.)
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Q: What is this Zone Heating You talk about?
A: It’s really a simple concept that is practiced widely in many other parts of the world. The basic premise is... “Turn back the central heating system and use zone heaters for additional warmth in the rooms used most often”.
Zone heating focuses on three basic premises to reduce your total home heating costs.
* Reduce the size of the total area being heated
* Reduce the length of time that a specific area is being heated
* Use high efficiency appliances to heat your home
By turning back your central heating system and replacing that heat in select areas for selected parts of the day with zone heaters that operate at higher efficiency, you can reduce your total home heating costs.
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Q: How can I save money with Zone Heat?
A: Do you remember the basic premise - "Turn back the central heating system and use a zone heater for additional warmth in the rooms used most often”.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the average homeowner can save 3% for each degree the central heating system is turned back. Imagine, turn back the thermostat from 78º to 68º and save 30%! That could be $500 or more for many homeowners! This easily offsets the initial cost of more zone heaters, making zone heat “a wise investment”.
Add zone heaters to the rooms used most often and many homes could turn back the thermostat even further.
Zone heating can provide many other benefits:
* Most kerosene and electric zone heaters are portable allowing the user to move the heat from room to room.
* Gas and kerosene heaters are 99% fuel efficient versus central heating systems that may operate with as little as 60% efficiency.
* Many zone heaters have a low initial cost that can be offset in fuel savings in just one heating season.
* Kerosene & electric heaters require no installation
* Kerosene and LP gas can be purchased in small quantities compared to hundreds of dollars to fill a central heating system tank.
* Kerosene and gas heaters require no electricity - keeping families and homes safe and warm during winter power outages.
* Zone heaters are available in a myriad of designs, styles and fuel. From $15 electric heaters to $1000 gas fireplaces, there’s one to help almost every family.
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Q: Can red kerosene be used?
A: The Federal government requires that kerosene that is not intended for road use and therefore not subject to a 24.9¢ tax be dyed red. As long as it is advertised as K-1 kerosene it can be used in your heater. We recommend the use of clear K-1 kerosene when available as it is much easier to see contamination in the clear kerosene. Beware of using off-road diesel fuel - it may have the same color and clarity as red kerosene, however diesel fuel has a high sulfur content and will cause very strong odors, smoke, soot, and wick contamination if used in a wick fed kerosene heater! (It's OK to use diesel fuel in portable forced air barrel heaters - they do not use wicks, and instead use a pressurized fuel system.)
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Q: How should kerosene be stored?
A: Store kerosene only in a new, clean, sealed container clearly marked for kerosene. Such containers as used drums, milk containers, used plastic jugs, and used gasoline cans will contaminate kerosene and will harm the wick or cause a fire. Many containers may also collect condensation or moisture from the air, and eventually your kerosene becomes contaminated with water - Keep kerosene in a cool, dry place - do not store it outdoors where rain or snow can collect on the top of the container. water will eventually seep past the caps or lid. We highly recommend purchasing a specialized (blue-colored) kerosene container for the purpose, and use this container ONLY for kerosene storage. Take unused kerosene to your local auto shop or oil waste recycling facility in the spring, after you put your heater away for the summer, and discard any remaining stored fuel. This will help to keep your kerosene container clean and uncontaminated. (see the "How Long can I store kerosene" FAQ. ) It also helps if you add a good kerosene fuel treatment, such as our Kero-Klean Kerosene additive
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Q: How long can I store kerosene?
A: One to three months is the longest we recommend storing fuel. Kerosene should not be stored from one season to the next, including inside the heater tank. If allowed to sit over the summer, the fuel will break down and absorb water. There are bacteria and molds that live in the kerosene and feed off fossil fuels. As this process speeds up over the warm summer months, sludge develops in the fuel. If this fuel is used the following season it can clog the wick and cause odor, low burn and wick hardening. It is best to buy kerosene in small quantities so that you are assured of the freshest fuel possible. Find a supplier that you can trust to have good fuel and stick with them.
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Q: How can I tell if my kerosene is good?
A: The best way to tell if you have good fuel is to siphon off a small amount of fuel from the bottom of your storage container into a small clear jar. (A small siphon such as our Mini-Siphon works great!) It is important to pump from the bottom because if there is water present that's where it will be since it has a higher specific gravity than kerosene. Allow the sample to sit for at least an hour and observe to see if there is anything floating in the fuel. Bubbles at the bottom are not good – they are water bubbles, not air. You should not be able to see particles floating. If the fuel is clear it should be crystal clear with no separation. Anything cloudy or yellowed is contaminated and should not be used. Red fuel will be harder to see contamination but should be translucent – much like Kool Aid , not cloudy or opaque. The fuel should also smell like kerosene and have no diesel or gasoline smell to it. If you have any doubt about the fuel - get fresh. The final test is burning the heater; the flame should be bright and even. Any kerosene odor should become very faint after the heater reaches optimum burn (usually after 45-60 minutes).
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Q: What causes bad odor in my heater?
A: Bad odor after the heater is burning is most often caused by low quality fuel. If there is high sulphur content in the fuel you are using or if it is lower grade kerosene it cannot be burned completely at the temperatures reached in a portable kerosene heater. These unburnt hydrocarbons collect on the wick and harden causing low burn and odor problems. Also be very careful when fueling your heater to not let any fuel drip on the heater. Fuel on the outside of the heater or on the drip pan can cause a strong kerosene smell when the heater gets hot. In addition, if the heater is operated at too low of a temperature setting or with the wick installed too low, incomplete burning of the fuel will cause odor. A heater should always be operated on high, turned down just enough to keep from sooting. Refer to your owner's manual for the proper wick height for your model. Odors can be reduced or eliminated also by using a good quality kerosene treatment such as our Kero-Klean Kerosene additive.
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Q: Why won't my heater stay burning?
A: When having trouble keeping the heater burning there are several things that you should check. Is this the heater's initial use? If so, then the problem may be caused by not allowing the wick to soak long enough before lighting. Because it is the kerosene vapors that burn above the top surface of the wick, it is very important to wait at least 30-60 minutes with the wick in the down position in a full tank of fuel to be sure that the wick is fully saturated and can support the burn.
If you light the heater too quickly it may light, but air bubbles may develop in the capillaries of the wick and then it isn’t able to keep enough kerosene “wicking” to the surface to keep your heater burning properly. If a problem develops after the first tank of fuel has been burned, then the problem may be fuel-related. Poor quality or water-contaminated fuel clogs the wick fibers and impedes the fuel flow to the wick surface. This starves the flame of fuel. The best solution may be to replace the wick and fuel in your heater and start over.
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Q: Why does my heater smoke?
A: First of all make sure that the heater is filled with K-1 kerosene. Other fuel, such as gasoline, burn too hot causing the heater to burn out of control. NEVER USE GASOLINE or any other fuel described as flammable. If there is any question about the fuel in your heater it is best to drain it and replace the wick and start with fresh K-1 kerosene. If you are sure of your fuel and your heater is giving off sooty black smoke it is a sign that the fuel/air mix is off. Make sure the chimney is seated correctly. If it didn’t seat into place correctly after lighting you may be getting a very high flame on one side. If it’s a high orange flame all the way around try rolling the wick adjuster knob down within the adjustment range - the wick may just be too high. If these things do not fix the problem wait until the heater is cool and inspect the burner cylinder. If there are any holes plugged with soot it needs to be cleaned or if it’s dented or buckled it needs to be replaced. After you have checked the fuel and burner you should check to make sure the wick is installed at the correct height. Refer to the owner's manual for exact height. If the wick isn't installed correctly or there is no obvious defect it is best to take the heater to our shop to determine the cause. Smoke can also be reduced or even eliminated by using a good kerosene additive such as our Kero-Klean Kerosene additive
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Q: Why won't my heater light?
A: Is this the first time lighting the heater? If so, then you need to make sure the heater has been filled with good K-1 kerosene, and that the wick has been allowed to soak in the lowered position for at LEAST 60 minutes in a full tank of fuel. This insures the wick is completely saturated with kerosene. Then raise the wick to the “high” position.
When you push the “ignite” button you should see the igniter move into position to light the kerosene vapor above the top of the wick surface. The igniter should be glowing a bright orange.
The igniter should come into position right to the top surface of the wick but not touching the wick. If the igniter goes into the side of the wick it will not light – only the kerosene vapors just above the top surface of the wick will light. You may have to lower the wick adjuster mechanism a bit to make sure that the igniter is coming into contact correctly. If the igniter isn’t glowing check the batteries. They may need to be replaced or the igniter filament may be broken. If the batteries need to be replaced use only regular duty non-alkaline replacement batteries. Alkaline batteries deliver too strong an initial jolt and may blow the igniter.
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Q: Why won't my igniter glow?
A: When your igniter won’t glow the first most obvious cause is dead batteries. The batteries should only be replaced with regular duty non-alkaline batteries. Although alkaline batteries perform better and last longer in some small appliances they have too strong an initial jolt and often burn out the igniter filament. Strongest isn’t best in this application. If you have fresh non-alkaline batteries and it still won’t glow, the igniter probably needs to be replaced. To prevent igniter burn-out do not let the igniter come in contact with the side of the wick or stay in the flame after ignition. If you have tried new batteries, it is likely the battery holder or wiring to the igniter has become loose or corroded. We can get most replacement battery holders (they are pretty cheap in most cases) and repair wiring problems. Bring your heater in and have us fix your igniter for you for best results - We will check the entire system completely and make sure your heater does not have other problems.
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Q: Why won't my heater shut-off?
A: This is a critical safety issue. When you hit the shut-off knob and the wick won’t drop, it is most likely because of tar and carbon build-up. If the heater has been burnt too low or contaminated fuel has been used, a sticky tar forms on the wick and it hardens. As the wick gets harder and thicker it becomes more and more difficult to raise and lower the wick until it will no longer slide between the wick adjuster and the primary air tube. Bad water contamination in the fuel can also cause the cotton fibers in the wick to swell and not allow it to move freely in all cases. The wick should be replaced. If you believe your wick is OK, or needs to be replaced, bring the heater in to us for a checkup and evaluation. No heater EVER leaves our shop in operating condition without all safety devices being properly operational.
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Q: How often should I change my wick?
A: The American Lung Association, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommend you check and replace the wick yearly. You may have to change the wick more often if you use low quality fuel or burn your heater on too low of a heat setting. Annual wick replacement helps to ensure long life of your heater as well. Typically BG's Engine Clinic will run a pre-season special each fall for kerosene heater service and tune-up.
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Q: Why should I buy Kerosene heater wicks and parts from you, instead of my local hardware store?
A: Several reasons we can offer -We are an authorized Kero-World dealer, and:
1) Kero-World wicks provide easier installation by using exact specifications. Their quality certification on each replacement wick insures you of correct length, diameter, and thickness for proper fit. This results in easier installation and the greatest heater performance.
2) Kero-World wicks provide a cleaner burning heater. Their superior design combines a smooth fuel flow and high temperature burning surface to produce a more complete combustion process.
3) Kero-World wicks provide a higher degree of safety. Using correct applications, high-quality raw materials, stringent construction methods and superior design, Kero-World wicks provide you with peace of mind.
4) Kero-World wicks are of a higher quality construction, including:
* The burning surface is constructed of impregnated fiberglass, providing a higher BTU output and less carbon build-up.
* Correct thickness for ease of use and proper combustion.
* One piece construction, knitted together with no seam eliminates separation and provides improved capillary action, smoother fuel flow and improved combustion. Correct diameter for easy fit and proper burn.
* Reinforced cloth band for additional strength. Correct guide-line placement for easy installation. Quality construction methods provide for strong long-lasting seam.
* High quality cotton bottom provides excellent kerosene absorption which provides the highest BTU output.
* Correct length for proper draw and a more even burn.
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Q: Why should I buy replacement parts from you, instead of my local dealership?
A: We strongly support the local dealership. If your local dealer has the parts available, by all means, please do go pay them a visit. However, for some people, it is not feasible to make the trip, or their dealership does not have the parts in stock or available, or they simply don't want to be bothered to make the trip to a dealership to purchase a few spare parts they can just as easily have shipped directly to their door. We're just working to fill in the gaps.
Our website and store is also in support of our own local dealership. many of our customers can purchase and pay online, and then stop by the shop whenever it is convenient for them, knowing that it won't be a wasted trip, because we have the parts set aside and ready for them to pick up! In addition, for some of our customers, they may have to work odd hours, or are simply unable to visit the shop during our business hours, and for these customers, the ability to order online or by phone and have us mail out or deliver the parts that they need is just another part of our service.
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Q: I have a Ryobi / Ridgid power tool with a bad battery - Can you warranty it for me?
A: We can inspect your power tool, battery, and charger to determine if it may be replaced or repaire dunder warranty- HOWEVER, we must have a copy of the purchase receipt showing date of purchase of the product. If no receipt is available, we may only go by the date code or serial number. - You may also be able to return to the store where the unit was purchased and see if they can look up the sales receipt and print you a new copy of the original receipt.
If we must go by the date code, then, as an example, if the date code on your battery is CS0926, that means it was manufactured in 2009, on the 26th week , so it should be covered by warranty until the 26th week of 2011 (for Ryobi Products under 2 year warranty) of 26th week of 2012 (for Ridgid products under 3 year warranty)
You can bring the tool in to our shop, or contact us using our contact form, and ship the complete tool (Battery, Tool, AND charger) to us for inspection (at your expense) - If the unit is able to be fixed under warranty and warranty claim is paid, we will ship the tool back to you at no charge, or advise you of the cost of repairs /replacement / return freight. - In some cases it may be more cost effective to purchase a new tool, or a factory refurbished unit, than to repair or replace.
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Q: Can you get rid of those silly plastic caps on my carburetor so I can adjust it when I need to?
A: Absolutely not! Those "silly plastic caps" are federally mandated limiter caps that are installed as part of the emissions compliance components on newer equipment. Just like the catalytic converter and emissions components on a motor vehicle, such as the catalytic converter (and by the way many modern small engines have catalytic converters too!) Removal or disabling of these emissions components can subject the mechanic, the shop, and even the distributor to some very stiff fines - as much as $25,000 or more *per violation*. Any person removing and discarding these limiter caps, disabling the catalytic converter mufflers, (or replacing them with cheap-o aftermarket mufflers that do not have catalytic element) is placing themselves at risk for some very expensive problems with the EPA and/or CARB (for those that are in California).
In fact, only technicians that have been certified and trained for proper adjustments should be doing carburetor adjustments beyond the range of the limiter caps. The process to properly adjust a carburetor can be somewhat complex, and adjustments must be made at specific engine RPM speeds, under specific operating conditions, *after* a complete examination of the equipment and engine to verify that the cause of the problem is indeed due to misadjusted carburetor. Many procedures to test and verify operating conditions require some expensive and specialized tools and equipment. If you think your carburetor needs to be adjusted, you should take the equipment to a shop that employs technicians that are Trained and/or certified to work with emissions compliant equipment (We are). Chances are that the carburetor does not need to be adjusted, but instead something as simple as a loose screw in a muffler or plugged air filter - or even an incorrect spark plug, is causing the performance problems. (something as simple as using the wrong heat range spark plug can affect engine RPM and power output by as much as 700 - 1,000 RPM's!)
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Q: But, my Ridgid tool has a lifetime warranty!
A: If you believe your Ridgid power tool is under a lifetime warranty, then you should have a document called a "Lifetime Service Agreement" (LSA) - If you can produce this document and/or the LSA number, we can check and verify with the manufacturer that the unit is indeed under Lifetime Warranty. However, if you do not have the LSA Document, or the LSA number, then we can only file claims under the 3-year Ridgid warranty. If the store that sold it to you told you it has a lifetime warranty, and did not provide you with an LSA number or document, then you will need to go back to the store and take it up with them. - They may be able to look up the original purchase in their records, and recover the LSA agreement ID, or purchase receipt, and print you a copy.
Q: Why is this FAQ so disorganized?
A: Heh. Yes, we know... and we're working on it, in between repair jobs, running the business, etc. All NEW FAQ's that we publish will start out on this page, and as we review the pages while we have time, we may find enough FAQ's on a particular subject to warrant a separate Subject-Specific FAQ page, in which case the FAQ's will be moved to that page, once we get one created and linked up.
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